Corsets... Bodies! (Patterning)

HI!

So this one goes out to both Sammi and Roobi especially. Instead of writing you an email of instructions I'm writing you a blog instead.

Ok so "Bodies". These styles of corsets are designed to go under Tudor. the purpose of Tudor is to get the shape of a triangle on top of another triangle. (Roobi, we can make any shape you want, but this is the basics I'm starting out with and we can branch off later if you like!)

In the Tudor tailor there are a few different corset designs, I followed the Bodies pattern for the Elizabethan style. This is the one on the bottom right. The one at the top left is the one used with the Henrican dress I think. I have one that goes with the other black Tudor that got given to me. Its ok but I don't think its for cleavage at all... They look like the purpose is to completely flatten. I like a flat curve personally.

The way I make myself patterns is a little complicated, because I want to be able to fit them independently. The way I do it is I draw out the exact shape from the book on calico (roughly inch for inch) in pen or marker or something (not chalk) and then cut around it sparingly because I'm a larger figure. You might not have to if you are small. Basically you want to cut of these weird looking shapes and it becomes a strapless corset style thing.

Don't worry if this is not perfect, I usually end up re cutting out this calico pattern about 3 times.

It also looks like the WEIRDEST SHAPE. Don't worry, I doubted it too when I made my first patter, it just looks so odd. But it works.

Next you want to sew up the seems with any old thread it doesn't matter. Where you want the lacing to be you sew a zip in. Sew it in, doesn't have to be perfect. I recommend probably going with front lacing. This is because, again I like to be able to do it up myself, but also it helps if you want cleavage. Latter on you can make it tighter or loser depending on how much cleavage you want, but if the lacing is at the back its usually impossible to do this. Usually with the lacing at the front there is a lot more flex and bend especially in the section over the stomach. Or rather I find this because I am a bit "curvy" in the tummy area and it all just gets pushed out? I haven't experimented this with skinnier girls! See below for what my shape looked like when laid flat.

Straps need a bit of consideration. In the past I have found my boobs sort of spread out over the top of the corset if there are no straps. Where as the straps seem to hold my boobs in the middle...If that even makes sense? HOWEVER the thing MOST IMPORTANT to consider with these straps is the neckline.

My corset was designed with my black dress in mind originally:

I had thick straps (or whatever) at the top of the shoulder and it angles in towards the underarm. I really wanted to create another triangle style line. This became a problem with my red dress because I wanted the neckline to be as wide and "off the shoulder" as possible...

Solution? I just tuck the shoulder straps in the back when I wear this dress and the dress's shoulders seem to do the holding the boobs in thing for the corset. Only problem is, when I don't wear it with the straps the corset feels like its "falling down". I think this just might be because I'm putting it on to low.

Ok so my point? Hm... Well... See in the picture how they are like a triangle shape? you want to have them a decent width at the back, but not so much once they come over the shoulder, and if the look is for the off the shoulder look, I think they are pointless.

Ok. So what have you done? Cut out the pattern, sewn up the two side/back seems and put a zip down the front. you want to sew the straps on at the back but not at the front.

From here you want to cut into the underarm to make tags. Put it on, see where it doesn't fit. There is probably zero percent change that it will fit at this stage. From here is just a series of drawing lines in a different colour pen where it should be taken in pining and then taking the thing off sewing along those lines and putting it back on so it fits. When it sort of fits OK we take it of draw along the seem lines where it fits, rip it apart and copy out a new one onto calico and start again. We do this until we can be absolutely happy with the fit.

What we do want is the cuts up the sides that create the "tabs" to finish about an inch above where your ribs finish. We want the underarms to be low and not digging in. If cleavage is what we are after you don't what to keep making it smaller at the very top but section just under the boobs. This is similar in making a coathardie... You want it to be tight under the boob and fitting at the cleavage so it doesn't muffin.

You also want to focus on the neckline. You need to have an idea of the dress going over this so you can tailor this neckline to be hidden under that. There is nothing worse than being unhappy with an amazing dress because you under things don't match up and show through. (Although if this is the look you are going for then... by all means...) Similarly you want to know what you want the back of your dress to looks like. I like mine to be high at the back and square. I like square because I think it matches the front the best... but its really up to you. I really like that tudor look that makes the shoulder straps finish under the underarm and off the shoulder. I looks uncomfortable and like they have no shoulders... it makes their shoulders seem very "down" but this could have always been the fashion of how things were drawn. I also think it makes the neck look longer and more elegant (NOT in this picture though).

Don't worry so much about the neckline and shape and all that in the start though. that can be adjusted for after the corset fits the rest of the body!

Patterning is the most fiddly part of the process. its a lot of taking it off putting it on cutting and re cutting. ripping and re sewing. The only advice I have is don't be a perfectionist at the start.

Something else to consider is the calico has a lot of stretch in it. Adding a second layer of calico can enforce this and will create a more realistic final pattern.

OK so here are some pictures of my corset. Keep in mind its pretty worn and stretched to allow for my hips.  Se the cuts that make up the "tabs" you do not want to cut a section out, just a slit, they look far apart because of the bias binding. Also, mine are all uneven, This is because I went back and changed one or two but not the others. (Coz again, I'm lazy)

This looks pretty uneven hey... Oh well...

Hm... I think that's it for now. Hope that makes sense... haha