Saturday, April 13, 2013

Man Garb!

First thing first, WOOO FESTIVAL!

So festival and Sydney were super extremely large amounts of fun!!! I did finish pretty much everything I set out to finish. =D
I finished my new Maroon Kirtle, my woollen English Hood and the Man Garb (to a degree).

Man Garb.

This was a very simple design, Doublet and pants, which has been called the "Tudor Tracksuit". I was taking a design of garb Daniel already had and copying it. I have wanted to try making male garb for a while, whilst I love making myself garb, I have sooooo much and it gets so expensive. I thought it would be a great opportunity to spend someone else's money on something that I will be proud of.
 Here are some pictures I stole off Facebook of the existing Tudor Tracksuit:


RED FABRIC! I found this awesome red swirl pattern that I really liked! It came in blue and browns and a whole bunch of other awesome colours, but red was decided upon. Also! I didn't have to buy 10 meters of the stuff! Such a weird concept, only buying a tiny bit. So much more economical! =p
Patterning!
I haven't done patterning on someone else in a while. I have also never patterned male clothes or garb before. It was an interesting concept to tell myself to not make it super tight and fitted to support everything up top, because guys don't have boobs...

Guys also have an interesting body shape in the way it is all flat, yet there are particular curves in it you don't actually see that create creases in my patterning. HOWEVER I think this was because I've only ever patterned the top half of my body and to use the whole torso section is a little foreign to me.








So, I had a lot of issues getting the back to be less creased. From memory I think I improved it, but I don't have another picture. I use a zip in my own patterning style to increase tension, and it wasn't necessarily needed here, but it made the whole process go a lot smoother instead of pining that whole front section. At this stage I was happy with the neck line and we were going to put in a folded back collar. When the doublet was all done up in the material the neckline looked really feminine and low. Next time I would make the neckline a lot higher to start with to give more room for the collar options. The Collar I ended up using was a flat extension of the neckline, basically. 

Here it is halfway through:

No Buttons yet.
Wings


Here is the top of the neckline with the flat added collar. 

Back of the collar

Back of the Doublet with the back "skirt" tab thing on.

The super pretty buttons!

My first button hole. geez it took forever! 
I only just finished all the button holes before festival. Actually I think I did the last couple on the pants at festival... The doublet I made some sacrifices on. I never added the four front tabs before festival, and I kinda needed them.

The pants were interesting. I've never made pants before! I made the pattern too small around the waistline for nice looking pleats. I then cut the material out a little too big and sort of over compensated. I cut off about 6" on each leg in width. The four leg panels are pleated in the waist band, about two box pleats for each leg panel (four leg panels). This is the only picture I have on the finished pants:




There was a bit of a problem with my button holes on the pants. Origination I needed the waist band to be "X" inches around. My problem was, I didn't count in the extra overlap of 2" for my button holes and buttons to line up correctly, neatly and in a straight line. so.... The buttons had to go on a diagonal. and then because there was only one thing piece of cotton where I was making the button holes in the pants (unlike the doublet which had about 3 layers specifically where the holes were) the holes ballooned out a bit and are too big for the buttons, sadly.

What's left?
SO I now have to make my waist band bigger due to my error, and replace the front panel of the pants so I can re do the button holes to the correct size. I also need to make straight sleeves for it. I also need to make and attach the tabs along the front.

Trim.
Once all that is done I want to put trim on it. Original we bought some silver patterned thing thing, but I am seriously thinking of just black stripes along the edges and some lines done the middle. A bit like these designs I found on the internet....












Anyway.... That is about everything...
I really need to study, and then I can create more posts about my garb.