Saturday, November 3, 2012

Elizabeth Bodice Done!

I'm so excited I just had to write about it!

Hi internet!

I finished my bodice!!! =D

Well, by finish, I mean it is wearable and I put it on and it fit nicely and stuff and I like it!! =D

the shoulders could be a little tighter, but I think with the weight of a skirt on the end of the bodice, weighing it down a little, it will actually pull the bodice down a enough. Alternatively, the sleeves will pad the shoulders out a little with the extra fabric.

My process was the same as normal, however I found patterning myself a little challenging and nearly had a meltdown, but was determined to be able to do it myself!

I cut out bodice pieces in calico that were a copy of my black dress pattern. I altered it slightly, such as the shoulder shape and the front being one piece, not two. I decided to go with one side lacing, and decided to put a zip in there. After putting it on the first time over my corset, I realised the shoulder straps of my corset were the wrong shape and I would have to tuck them in the back of my corset for this dress.

Front Veiw
I also managed to discover what was making my corset so uncomfortable. The way the shoulders were attached the the corset. The strings that tie the shoulders to the body where digging in and without this I found the corset worked much better. I also may have made one of the splits up the side longer, but I haven't decided if that was beneficial or not yet.

 Anyway, after some preliminary pen marks and scissors and cutting I made a new bodice out of more calico  with the changes. After just some slight adjusting I liked the way it fit and drew pen all over it to mark the edges. Here are some of my patterning Pics.
Side View
Shoulder positioning



I then cut out two layer of drill in the front and the back. (I would have used canvas, but I didn't want to use polyester canvas and cotton drill is pretty think). I sewed some channels for boning in the canvas. I use the largest cable ties I could find for the boning. I also cut out some buckram, but just the very front of the bodice, just from the neckline down, between the shoulders. After putting in the cable ties, I sewed the buckram onto the canvas between the boning channels to hold it in place. I didn't put any boning in the back piece. Then I cut out the top fabric in the fancy fabric which was a huge drama because I have never worked with patterned fabric before and I had to line it up perfectly. I also had to line the back up with the front, so when they join it will look like the pattern just wraps around me. Hopefully.




I basted the fancy fabric to the interlining and lightly stitched all the edges onto the canvas, except the outsides of the shoulders, because I plan to attach sleeves here.

And then I finally sewed one side together and the shoulders and turned the seems down and folded it. I decided I didn't need to put a lining in just yet, as I could always do that later and would save me lots of time. I am working on a time budget here. This dress needs to be ready to wear by next Friday night! That is just 5 ish days away!

Ok so I just finished with the lacing wholes down the side and tried it on and I think I am very happy with it!

Here are some pics!






















Now all I have to do is the skirt the sleeves the French hood and the forepart/ skirt combo.

I think I will do the skirt next as It will make the dress wearable as soon as possible. Then the hood. I think the sleeves will be super duper complicated and way to warm for this occasion. I will leave the skirt till last as I have a white underskirt that I wear with my black dress that will substitute well If I run out of time.

For the sleeves, I want to be able to devise a way to attach them so they look like they are sewn on, but are detachable for when the weather is far to warm for them. I think because I have no idea how to make them just atm that I will run out of time and they may not work out as well as they should.

I want to make the French Hood because I want a hat. I have always wanted one but never gotten around to it. Maybe this will be the perfect opportunity. Again, it will be complicated and I have no idea how to do it.

Time for bed! =)

Happy Aimee is happy!